The Power of the Ocean

Do you have a place where you can get away and completely clear your head?

 

For me, it’s the ocean.

 

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I’ve been in desperate need of some beach for weeks now. I had a last minute opportunity to join a friend for a super early morning surf trip, and I could NOT resist.

 

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Note: these pictures are from two summers ago. I brought a disposable waterproof camera today, because I didn’t want to ruin my good camera. I’ll have to wait a bit before I get those pictures back!

 

I bought my board two summers ago, after surfing on my friends’ boards for about a year.

 

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Essentially, it was perfect for me. A brand new longboard! Her name is blue. 🙂

 

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I surfed a couple of times that summer…

 

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…but it has been sitting in the corner of my living room for far too long.

 

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Before I left for the beach, I made a quick green smoothie and grabbed a Kashi granola bar. Bananas are supposed to be good for being in the sun (according to my surf buddies) but I didn’t have any fresh, so I did the next best thing… took a frozen one out and whipped up a smoothie!

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When I got to the beach this morning, just after 7:00am. There were only a few other people at the beach, and a handful in the ocean. The sun was already risen over the low tide, and the waves were rolling. Looking out onto the ocean, I felt like my day was a blank canvas, waiting for me to dive in and paint it how I see fit. It was an amazing feeling.

 

With every paddle out, I was fighting the waves. Normally, the sets roll in with about 30 seconds of break in between. This morning, I was getting smacked in the face by waist high waves (the pictures are about ankle/shin high) with no relief from a set break. It was tough, but refreshing all at the same time… if that makes any sense?

 

I wish it would have been this easy today:

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In all honesty, I am actually really scared of the ocean. I have no clue how I manage to swim hundreds of yards out to surf. The critters, the rip current, the potential sharks, algae, seaweed getting wrapped around my ankles. It all just seems so disgusting and dangerous.

 

I usually stop and stare out at the water, surfboard under my arm, for a good 15 minutes or longer before entering. Something about the power of ocean demands respect, and I am so drawn to it. It’s kind of like a looking fear in the face thing.

 

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After an hour of fighting waves, I started getting pretty tired and headed back to the beach. I did notice that paddling was MUCH easier since I’ve been swimming.  Perhaps surfing could be a new form of cross-training?

 

I sat on the beach and did a few yoga type moves while I waited for my surf buddy to catch a few more waves. We left the beach by 10:00am or so, trying not to be complete and utter slackers. I was tired of being in the sun, and still had to get to school and get some other work done.

 

People don’t get it. I don’t really care. I came back feeling completely refreshed.

 

Mission: accomplished. 🙂

 

❤ MegaNerd

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31 Responses

  1. I’ve never surfed but I know exactly what is the feeling you talk about. I have the same one when I’m in the woods. Like everything is perfect, raw, untouched. It charges the batteries by being so peaceful. 🙂

  2. I think it’s SO COOL that you can surf! That’s something I definitely want to try one day. I LOVE the ocean but don’t live anywhere near it!

  3. Surfing was my goal for my honeymoon…and I failed. Looks amazing!

  4. Cool! I’d love to try surfing.. But I know I’d be useless!
    Hope you’re feeling happier now 🙂

  5. I know how you feel about the ocean, I’m exactly the same.
    Something about the sound of the waves and the feel of sand, well it just feels like home to be.
    Going to a University near a beach on purpose because of it 🙂

  6. I used to go to the beach all of the time growing up, but I never learned how to surf. How cool that you can!

    I think it’s great that you were able to recharge and enjoy some time to clear your head. Your mental health is just as important as your physical health during this crazy transitional time that you’re in.

  7. sweet post. i’m going to the beach next week and everything you said about the ocean is so true!

  8. Oo I’ve always wanted to learn how to surf!! Glad you got to find an escape for the day 😉

  9. The ocean and the desert both do this for me. Weird, huh?

    It’s so cool that you surf even when afraid of the ocean. I am also overwhelmed by the ocean and am really scared to surf. That is so cool that you do it anyway!

  10. LOVE, love, love your respect for the ocean in this post!

  11. You can surf???? oooooh I am so so impressed!!!! I would love to learn to surf!

  12. Looks like a perfect start to the morning. 🙂 I’m pretty sure Dean Karnazes uses wind surfing as cross training. I think anything that gets you moving is great and that you love it and puts you at peace is a HUGE bonus.

  13. I’ve only surfed one time in my life but I loved it! I totally sucked but I still loved it! 🙂

  14. I think surfing sounds like so much fun! And I agree about the ocean. It’s so scary that it just demands respect.

  15. I loved this post so much! Your surfing is my horseback riding. Engaging with nature is probably one of the most cathartic, spiritual things I think humans can do! Of course, i’m not quite brave enough to push past my profound fear of open water enough to hit the waves…but I’m glad it works for you :). You’re awesome!

  16. I know just how you feel about the ocean (although I don’t surf…yet!). There’s something so consuming and amazing about the waves hitting the shore and the vastness of the ocean. Learning to surf is on my bucket list, for sure. I’m glad you found it rejuvenating today. 🙂

  17. so awesome!!

    i really wish i could just head to the ocean some mornings and surf before work (not that i know how or anything, but i’d be willing to learn!). what a great way to start the day.

  18. I’m the same way about the ocean. There’s something so calming and powerful about it.

  19. Kick ass! I have never tried surfing but I LOVE the ocean! I can spend all day in the waves and on the beach.

  20. I love the ocean aswell 🙂 I think it’s so beautiful and powerful and think you described it perfectly. Can’t wait for you photos! 😀

  21. Oh, I love the ocean & so wish I knew how to surf. The ex tried to teach me but it didn’t work out so well…haha

  22. Wow, I never knew you could surf, that’s quite cool! Glad you had the opportunity to do something you haven’t done for a while.

  23. Sounds like an awesome day 🙂 I wish I could surf haha. Tried it once, but couldn’t get up more than twice.

    And I have to admit, I’m also a little scared of the ocean. I’m afraid of stepping on a fish and having it squirm underneath me haha. If it sounds weird and bizarre, it’s because that’s happened to me before. The chances are slim it’ll reoccur, but I’m scared of it 😉

  24. This sounds like so much fun! I have no idea what it’s like to surf, but I would so like to try it!

  25. I grew up in the Rocky Mountains (still live here, too) and nothing comes close to how I feel when I’m in the mountains. Climbing a 12,000 ft peak, backpacking, camping, hiking, fly fishing, just sitting in the mountains — those activities feed my soul! And I totally understand about the fear thing — I fear the mountains, but it is a respectful fear that I think makes me love them even more.

    I’m glad you got to go surfing today.

  26. Awesome! Surfing is HARD!!! My husband and I took surf lessons on our honeymoon in Hawaii and that is NO joke!!!

  27. That looks so fun! Makes me want to go buy a surfboard…

  28. Ha, I could’ve written this. I too surf and am simultaneously terrified of the ocean. Although, in our defense, central FL beaches *do* have sharks and I’ve even felt (what I believe to be) one brush against me while surfing a few years ago. Still, it’s such a fun sport.

  29. Hi Megan!

    Good luck in your sprint triathlon. I completed one last year and it was loads of fun. I’m actually doing an olympic distance in two weeks.

    I love the post about surfing. I have never tried it but plan to this summer. Thanks for the additional inspiration!

    Kristy

  30. I adore the ocean. Since I grew up in San Diego (born and raised Californian :P), I have always loved the beach. I just never got a chance to learn to surf. Oddly, my dad was a surfer when he was in HI, but never me. Maybe one day I will learn. I just know the wonderful feeling I get from just being in the presence of the beach, and I would love to get a workout while being there, too.

    I think I’ll have to try to make it out to the beach here in TX before I move up to WA (I’ll be wayyyy inland)…now I’m all nostalgic, lol.

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